LTF Double-Breasted Coat

Here at last is the completed LTF Double-Breasted Coat pattern.  If it is readable, it is all thanks to the very kind people who volunteered to test knit this!  Any problems remaining are the fault of the author.  :)



Skills Needed For This Pattern:
You should be able to cast on, cast off, knit, purl, increase, and knit in the round (for the sleeves).

Yarn:
Fingering weight yarn. I use Palette fingering weight yarn from Knitpicks.

Needles:
2.25mm needles, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge
8 stitches per inch/ 3 stitches per cm

Abbreviations Used:
PM = place marker
sl m = slip marker
kfb = knit front and back

Seed Stitch Pattern:
Cast on an even number of stitches.
Row 1: *K1, P1; repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *P1, K1; repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for pattern.

The collar, front bands, sleeve and body hems, and optional pockets are all worked in this stitch pattern.

Note:
This pattern is intended for personal use only.

It's available below the cut here, or in PDF format from Ravelry:
download now



Body

1. Cast on 28 Stitches
   

2. Work 10 rows seed stitch.
   

3. Cast on 2 stitches, work 4 stitches seed stitch , knit to last four stitches. Work 4 stitches seed stitch, and cast on 2 stitches. (Front panels are 6 stitches each.)
   

4. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, purl to last 6 stitches, work seed stitch.
   Note: If it is easier to keep track, you can insert a stitch marker after the first 6 stitches and before the last six stitches, to mark the front bands of the jacket.
   

5. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, *K3, kfb* across to last six stitches. Work six stitches seed stitch.
   

6. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, purl to the last six stitches, work 6 stitches seed stitch..
   

7. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, k3, Place Marker (PM), kfb, k3, kfb, PM, kfb, k8, kfb, PM, kfb, k3, kfb, PM, kfb, k1, work 6 stitches seed stitch.
   

         The stitch count between markers is 9-7-12-7-9

8. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, purl to the last six stitches, then work 6 stitches seed stitch.
   

9. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, knit to 1 stitch before the marker, and kfb. Slip Marker (SM).
   (Kfb, knit to 1 stitch before the marker, kfb, sl m.) x 3. Kfb, knit to last six stitches. Work 6 stitches seed stitch.
   

10. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, purl to the last six stitches, then work 6 stitches seed stitch.
    
    
11. Repeat rows 9 and 10 four more times. (8 rows total; 11-18)
    

19. On this row, we will be increasing the sleeve stitches only.
    Work 6 stitches seed stitch, knit to marker, sl m, kfb, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, sl m, knit to next marker, sl m, kfb, knit to 1 before the marker, kfb, sl M, knit to last six stitches. Work 6 stitches seed stitch.
    

20. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, purl to 1^st marker. Remove marker and place the arm stitches on a stitch holder. Remove marker, purl to next marker. Remove marker. Place sleeve stitches on holder, remove marker, purl to last six stitches. Work 6 stitches seed stitch.
    

21. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, knit to last 6 stitches, work 6 stitches seed stitch.
    

22. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, purl to the last six stitches, then work 6 stitches seed stitch.
    

23. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, knit to last 6 stitches, work 6 stitches seed stitch.
    

24. This row forms the decorative ridge.
    Work 6 stitches seed stitch, knit to last 6 stitches, work 6 stitches seed stitch.
    

25. This row increases the number of stitches, to form the “skirt” of the coat.
    Work 6 stitches seed stitch, *K2, kfb* till 2 before front band. Work 6 stitches seed stitch.
    You should have 63 stitches at the end of this row.
    Note: If you are planning to have the Jacket worn over a fuller skirt, you may want to add more increases in this row.
    

26. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, purl to the last six stitches, then work 6 stitches seed stitch.
    

27. Work 6 stitches seed stitch, knit to last 6 stitches, work 6 stitches seed stitch.
    

28. Repeat Rows 26 and 27 to desired length.
    For the longer length, I did 11 rows each (so 22 rows total).
    For the shorter length, I did 8 rows each (16 rows total).
    

         Note: Since row gauge can vary, I would recommend trying it on your doll to confirm you are happy with the length at this point.

40. Knit 5 rows seed stitch for the border.

41. Cast off in pattern.

Sleeves

1. Place saved sleeve stitches on needles. I split them as follows:
   Needle 1: 6 stitches
   Needle 2: 7 stitches
   Needle 3: 6 stitches
   

2. With the purl side facing you, cast on one stitch, then purl across, then cast on one stitch. You will have 21 stitches in total for the sleeve.
   

3. Knit across and join work.
   

4. Knit in rounds to desired lengh. For me, this was 22 rounds.
   Note: Since row gauge can vary, I would recommend trying it on your doll to confirm you are happy with the length at this point.
   

5. Work 5 rows seed stitch.
   
   
6. Cast off in pattern.
   

Pocket

1. Cast on 8 stitches.
   

2. Work 12 rows seed stitch.
   

3. Cast off in pattern
   

Finishing

1. Sew up area under arms.
   
   

2. Weave in ends.
   
   

3. Block pieces.
   
   

4. Confirm pocket placement and sew on. It helps to put the coat on the doll when deciding on pocket placement.
   
   

5. Sew on 6-8 small buttons in two rows for a traditional look.
   
   

6. Sew on three sets of snaps to hold the coat closed. The lowest set of snaps should be 2/3 of the way down the coat, so that there is some give when worn with skirts.
   
   

This pattern is very easy to alter. For example, here is a version with larger pockets and no buttons. It isn't meant to be worn closed:





Other Variations:

1. For a taller doll with similar measurements, you can add more rows to the arms and body. Test knitters were able to do this for a Lati Green and a Rosette.
   
2. Switch out the seed stitch for another stitch pattern. I have done versions in Garter stitch and moss stitch, for example.
   
3. Make a wider ridge of stitches, and add more increases afterwards, rather than the single line, for a fancier look!
   
   

I hope you enjoyed this pattern, and I'd love to see pictures if you make one! :)